One of two things happen when you see monstrous, huge waves that you’re about to surf for the first time; you either look at it like “there’s no way in hell I’m going out there” or you look at it with joy, because you’ve been waiting for this moment all your life.
The first time I surfed Puerto Escondido I was just a kid out of high school. I saved up as much money as I needed just to get there. I left the states with just one surfboard, a pair of board shorts and $50 in my pocket. Being from Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, all I wanted to do was charge BIG waves.
Local Myrtle Beach shaper Gary Wilson had shaped me the only big-wave surfboard probably ever made in Myrtle Beach at the time. It was an 8’6″ gun and it ended up being one of my favorite boards of all time.
When I arrived Puerto, I remember flying right over the beach and seeing the biggest waves I’d ever seen in my life.
One of two things happen when you see monstrous, huge waves that you’re about to surf for the first time; you either look at it like “there’s no way in hell I’m going out there” or you look at it with joy, because you’ve been waiting for this moment all your life.
Needless to say, twenty years later I’m still surfing Puerto and loving it!
Fountain of Youth!
The downside: it’s always a pain dragging surfboards all over the world. So I pack as light as possible, taking only the bare essentials.
For this Puerto Trip, I’m taking:
- MegaFood vitamins that keep me fit and energetic (at 40, I don’t want to miss a day of my vitamins)
- Hinano Tahiti clothing, which I designed trunks and t-shirts for
- 2 Ron House Paddle Surfboards by Riviera Paddle Surf: a 9’1″ and a 10’6″
- 2 Kialoa Paddles
- 2 surfboards: My 8’0″ Gerry Lopez pipe-gun (I’ve had a blast on this board) and my 5’10″ Ron House Twin Fin (also a blast anywhere I take it)
- Ocean & Earth Leashes
- And my Keen flip flops (2 pairs)
- Laptop: Left behind
My new Tree of Life boardies
I’m very fortunate that I have sponsors that support what I’m doing. This trip is made possible by the cool people at MegaFood and my good friends Teva and Aja at Hinano Tahiti.
It’s been a huge task just gathering all the equipment and supplies needed for this trip. Dragging it all the way down to Mexico is nothing compared to surfing the giant tubes that await me!
The waves are supposed to be 8′ when I arrive. Stay tuned for my next update.
Life is Good, Drew
