Photographer John Cocozza interviewed me for Surf Shot Magazine. He asked a lot of great questions that let me tell a couple stories that don’t normally come up in an interview, like the “town surfboard” when I was a kid, my favorite all-time painting, and being robbed in Peru.
Here’s part of the interview; for the complete interview go to Surf Shot Magazine.
When did you start surfing and who got you started? My older brother Tommy put me on a board when I was about 4 or 5. It was an instant addiction!
What was your first board and do you still have it? When I was a kid, there were only a few (more…)