FOR THE NEXT 20 DAYS, I’M CREATING 20 ORIGINAL ART PIECES that reflect my thought process and where my ideas originate from.
I’m painting from the heart, just having fun with it. You might love ’em, you might hate ’em, but either way, I hope they invoke a feeling for you.
(If you share my posts, please tag #20×20 #drewbrophy #SurfArt)
Today’s Painting is the 7th of 20 in this #20×20 Series, titled THE HALIBUT HOLE, 9″ x 12″ on Canvas board, medium Paint Pens.
I’m having a lot of fun painting these every day. Painting on a small canvas is helping me to create a simpler style. Thanks to everyone who has been watching this process unfold.
I like the energy in this one!
The inspiration behind The Halibut Hole:
There’s a secret spot in San Clemente called The Halibut Hole. Standup paddleboarders have been paddling out there and catching giant halibut.
The water was super clear today, it’s almost unfair, because you can see the halibut laying on the bottom, they’re so big.
Life is good in San Clemente!
Drew
This painting sold before it was finished, to N.P. in Orange County.
If you wanted this one but missed it, and you want to consider the next #20×20 painting, email info @ drew brophy dot com and we will put you on the “#20X20 PAINTING PREVIEW” list, in line for the next one.
WHEN EMAILING to BUY ONE OF THE #20X20 PAINTINGS: email info @ drew brophy dot com immediately with your phone#, shipping address preferred payment method (Paypal or credit card). We will need payment within 4 hours of your email, or the painting goes to the next person in line. Thanks!
Every time a big swell is on its way, I begin to plan on where to go and try to get all my work done.
Even though I have organized my life to be free, sometimes I feel guilty leaving my wife and son for the pursuit of surfing big waves. This past week was one of those times.
The swell was coming and I needed to be at the right place at the right time, but I was not sure where to go. It was already Saturday afternoon and I was determined not to miss another great swell.
I usually head South to Blacks or Mexico, because I know my way around, but the swell would not arrive there until a full day later and it would be a lot smaller. It was going to be hitting up north in the morning and the weather was going to be beautiful, sunny skies, 70 degree temps, and off shore winds.
What to do?
A couple years ago I met new friends surfing in Puerto Escondido, Ian and Haley. They live in NorCal, they love big waves, and most of all they love Mavericks. They are normal guys like me, not pros and not burned-out old surfers with bad attitudes, but guys with their shit together, who CHARGE. I decided to reach out and send Ian a message, asking him what was up and where was he was surfing the swell.
Haley and Ian, Ocean Beach
He sent a short reply: “START DRIVING NOW!”
Ian lives in Ocean Beach, San Francisco, and it is an 7 hour drive for me.
Believe it or not I do not connect with too many people, I often do everything alone. My wife is awesome; she pushes me to reach out to friends and not do so many things on my own. She encouraged me to go and helped me to get ready. While she was packing water and food for me, I was busy loading up the essentials on the roof of my van:
My 5’10” Ron House twin-fin fish, just in case all the models were wrong and it was flat!
and most importantly, my Patagonia wetsuit. (I never got cold thanks to that suit)
I was loaded up and on the road an hour after getting Ian’s message.
It was about 10 p.m. when I arrived in San Francisco, after driving straight through, I pulled up to Ian’s oceanfront home with him waving from the window. I had not seen him in two years, but he is like me, he loves to surf.
Ian and Haley take Charge! Mavericks
The plan was to meet Haley at Mavericks before dawn. They were having the Maverick’s Invitational big wave contest with all the pros and the circus; we wanted to be there before they started, so we could get some waves.
We awoke at 4:30, got on the road and were in the parking lot 5:15. The police were already shutting down the streets, I guess they were expecting a big crowd.
We suited up in the dark and began the long paddle out. The air was still and quiet, with a zillion stars in the sky, and due to the long period swell the ocean was unusually calm. I could barely see my friends as they guided me around the huge rocks, I was so focused on just getting there and getting out, I never really thought about what it would be like to be in the lineup of one the scariest waves in the world in total blackness. I wish I could properly describe how cool that experience was but it is impossible.
I must say once there it was down right spiritual, it was a moment when all the effort pays off.
I was in my element. We gazed at the stars with giant swells rolling beneath us, waiting for the dawn so we could surf. As soon as the tiniest bit of light filled the air the waves exploded into view. My friends paddled right into the lineup and began to ride the giant waves. I was in heaven, three guys surfing alone at one of the biggest best breaks in the world.
I caught one huge left and achieved two of my goals for the year:
Surf Mavericks; and
Spend more time with friends.
A half hour later noise and diesel fumes destroyed the calm, an army of jet skis first, and then a flotilla of boats converging on the reef, then two giant coast guard ships, and news helicopters.
The Circus! Mavericks
Our Mavs session was instantly over, forty guys crawled into the line up and the circus began. so we sat in the channel and watched our pro surfer friends ride waves.
Something was missing, contests have become everything surfing is not. We paddled in to refuel and go surf Ocean Beach, we knew it was firing. In fact it was the best it had been in years. But, Ian was down after hurting his arm on his last wave at Mavs. I surfed by myself in front of his house all afternoon.
It was huge and empty, just me and the sea, a far contrast from the circus we left. Hands down the best surf session I ever had on my paddle board. I was at the perfect place at the perfect time, We watched the sunset while drinking beer from the sand dunes. Our bodies were buzzing from the days waves totally stoked and exhausted.
The next morning the swell was smaller but more groomed and still great. Ian feed me coffee and motivated me to charge into the sea once more. Haley met us in the water. Great rides were had by all and another epic session went into the history books.
This is what surfing and life is all about, being with the right people, in the right place, at the right time. Make the effort, reach out, and create new adventures.
Thanks guys for an fantastic 48 hours.
Life is Good Drew
PS: Thanks to Bruce Topps of NorCal Surf Photos for the shots of me surfing Ocean Beach!
On our Surf, SUP and Paint Tour across America, I was really looking forward to seeing the Great Lakes for the first time. Here’s a rundown of our first couple days.
Pictured Rocks Cave on Lake Superior
LAKE SUPERIOR SURFING:
I had heard stories and seen videos of dedicated surfers outside of Deluth, Michigan, riding waves on the Lake, and I wanted to see it for myself. There’s even a Lake Superior Surf Club!
Lake Superior is the biggest, deepest and coldest of the Great Lakes and it was our first stop.
We started at Stony Point, a surf spot that is rumored to get good waves. It’s about thirty miles North of Deluth. We drove down a gravel road in a heavily wooded area to reach it.
I was hoping for waves, but Stony Point was flat. However, it was picturesque and clear as the Caribbean, perfect for the paddleboard.
The water was unusually warm, almost 70 degrees. Maria and the kids had a blast climbing on the rocks and exploring the coastline. We just got Dylan a pair of Keen water sandals which came in handy as the bottom of the lake here was all rocks.
I took out the Rivera inflatable; it was on top of the van and quick to grab. The inflatable is my recon board – I can just easily throw it in the water to check things out! (more…)
In Episode 5 of The Paint Shop, my studio is hopping all week.
An art collector asked me to paint a 15′ wooden paddleboard with Japanese tattoo-style paintings.
Then I stoke out pro surfer Tanner Gudauskas by customizing his surfboard; and then, I get commissioned to paint the strangest thing I’ve ever had to paint….watch the show to find out what it is!
Drew’s studio is hopping this week as he paints a 15′ wooden paddleboard, stokes out pro surfer Tanner Gudauskas by customizing his surfboard, and then Drew is commissioned to paint the strangest thing he’s ever painted.